Welcome to The Ingredient De-coder
Because reading an INCI list shouldn’t require a chemistry degree, or a meltdown
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INGREDIENT NAME
Adenosine
WHAT IS IT?
A naturally occurring molecule found in every cell of the body. In skincare, it’s a biotech derived ingredient known for its soothing and anti ageing benefits.
WHAT IT DOES
Helps calm and reduce inflammation, supports skin repair, and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
It encourages smoother, more elastic skin by helping to energise and support healthy cell function.
GREAT FOR:
Dull or tired looking skin
Fine lines and early signs of ageing
Sensitive or easily irritated skin
Anyone wanting smoother, more resilient skin
VEGAN?
Yes, the adenosine used in skincare is synthetically or biotech-produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You have extremely reactive skin (rare, but any active can cause irritation)
You’re using many barrier repair or anti ageing ingredients at once, patch test if you’re sensitive
INGREDIENT NAME
Bifida Ferment Lysate
WHAT IS IT?
A probiotic inspired skincare ingredient created by fermenting Bifida bacteria and then breaking them down into skin beneficial compounds. Known for its soothing, barrier-supporting, and resilience boosting properties.
WHAT IT DOES
Strengthens the skin barrier, helps reduce sensitivity, protects against environmental stressors, hydrates, and supports overall skin repair.
It’s commonly found in “barrier serums” and glow boosting essences due to its gentle, restorative benefits.
GREAT FOR:
Sensitive or reactive skin
Dehydrated skin
Dull, stressed, or irritated skin
Anyone wanting barrier support and improved resilience
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s produced through bacterial fermentation and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re sensitive to fermented or probiotic style ingredients
You use many active products and notice mild irritation (rare, but possible with ferments)
INGREDIENT NAME
Butylene Glycol
WHAT IS IT?
A lightweight humectant and solvent commonly used in skincare to draw moisture into the skin and help other ingredients dissolve and spread effectively. It also has mild conditioning properties.
WHAT IT DOES
Boosts hydration by attracting water, improves the texture and slip of formulas, helps active ingredients penetrate more effectively, and keeps products stable and smooth.
It’s known for being gentle, versatile, and suitable for almost all skin types.
GREAT FOR:
Dry skin
Dehydrated skin
Combination skin
Anyone wanting smoother, softer, more hydrated skin
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s typically synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re extremely sensitive to glycols (rare)
You experience fungal acne flare ups, it’s not a trigger itself, but it can increase ingredient penetration, so patch testing may help.
INGREDIENT NAME
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
WHAT IS IT?
An extract from the leaves of the tea plant (green, white, or black tea). Rich in antioxidants, especially EGCG, and widely used for its soothing, protective, and anti inflammatory properties.
WHAT IT DOES
Neutralises free radicals, calms irritation, reduces redness, supports the skin barrier, helps protect against environmental stressors, and may help reduce signs of premature ageing.
Some forms also offer mild oil controlling and antibacterial benefits.
GREAT FOR:
Sensitive skin
Redness prone skin
Oily or acne prone skin
Dull skin
Anyone wanting antioxidant protection
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s plant derived and considered fully vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re sensitive to botanical extracts or natural fragrances (rare, but possible)
You’re using multiple antioxidant heavy products and experience mild irritation
INGREDIENT NAME
Caprylyl Glycol
WHAT IS IT?
A skin conditioning agent and humectant derived from fatty alcohols. It’s often used to moisturise skin and improve the texture and stability of cosmetic products.
WHAT IT DOES
Hydrates and softens the skin, helps stabilise formulas, acts as a mild preservative booster, and enhances the overall feel and spreadability of products.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types
Moisturising serums, creams, and lotions
Products that benefit from improved texture and stability
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced or plant derived and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra-minimalist formulations (it’s functional rather than a strong active)
You have very sensitive skin, rare irritation possible
INGREDIENT NAME
Ceramide NP
WHAT IS IT?
A type of ceramide (lipid) naturally found in the skin’s barrier. It helps maintain moisture, protect against environmental stressors, and keep the skin’s structure strong and healthy.
WHAT IT DOES
Restores and strengthens the skin barrier, locks in hydration, improves elasticity, and helps prevent water loss.
It’s especially effective in supporting dry, compromised, or sensitive skin.
GREAT FOR:
Dry skin
Dehydrated or barrier-compromised skin
Sensitive skin
Anyone wanting stronger, healthier, more resilient skin
VEGAN?
Yes, the ceramides used in skincare are synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra minimalist formulas (it’s a functional, barrier supporting ingredient rather than a visibly “active” ingredient)
You have oily skin, generally safe, but may feel heavy if used in large amounts
INGREDIENT NAME
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
WHAT IS IT?
A synthetic ester used in skincare and cosmetics for its lightweight conditioning properties. It helps improve the feel of a formula, making products smoother, softer, and easier to spread.
WHAT IT DOES
Softens and conditions the skin, enhances slip and spreadability, reduces greasiness, and improves overall product texture.
Often used to give creams and serums a silky, elegant finish.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types
Lightweight moisturisers
Serums and lotions that need smoother application
Formulas aiming for a soft, non greasy feel
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra minimal or entirely natural ingredients
You’re very sensitive to synthetic esters (rare, but possible)
INGREDIENT NAME
Disodium EDTA
WHAT IS IT?
A chelating agent that binds metal ions in water and skincare formulas. It helps prevent product degradation, improve stability, and enhance the effectiveness of preservatives.
WHAT IT DOES
Stabilises formulations, prevents discoloration or rancidity, boosts the performance of other ingredients, and helps keep products safe and long lasting.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types (it’s a functional ingredient rather than a treatment)
Products with water based formulas
Cosmetics and skincare that need long shelf life and stability
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra minimalist formulas (it’s purely functional, not active)
You have very sensitive skin, though it’s generally very gentle
INGREDIENT NAME
Ethylhexylglycerin
WHAT IS IT?
A multifunctional ingredient derived from glycerin. It acts as a gentle preservative booster, skin conditioner, and deodorising agent in cosmetics and skincare.
WHAT IT DOES
Hydrates and softens the skin, enhances the effectiveness of preservatives, improves formula texture, and helps keep products fresh and stable.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types
Moisturising creams, lotions, and serums
Products that benefit from gentle preservation and improved skin feel
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced or plant derived and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra minimalist formulas (it’s functional rather than an active)
You have very sensitive skin, rare irritation possible
INGREDIENT NAME
Glycerin
WHAT IS IT?
A humectant (water attracting ingredient) naturally found in the skin
WHAT IT DOES
Deeply hydrates by drawing water into the skin, strengthens the moisture barrier, smooths texture, and keeps skin soft, plump, and protected.
GREAT FOR:
Dry skin
Dehydrated skin
Sensitive skin
Compromised skin barrier
Everyday use (it plays well with almost everything)
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re using it in a very humid climate and find it feels a bit sticky
You’re relying on it alone for hydration, it works best when paired with occlusives or emollients to lock the moisture in
INGREDIENT NAME
Glycine
WHAT IS IT?
An amino acid naturally found in the skin and body. It plays a role in collagen production and overall skin health, making it a supportive, skin friendly ingredient.
WHAT IT DOES
Helps support collagen and elastin, hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, improves texture, and can enhance the skin’s natural barrier function.
GREAT FOR:
Dull or tired skin
Early signs of ageing
Sensitive or irritated skin
Anyone wanting smoother, healthier looking skin
VEGAN?
Yes, it can be synthetically produced and is considered vegan-friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re looking for dramatic, fast acting results (it’s a supportive ingredient, not a potent active)
You have very sensitive skin, though glycine is generally gentle
INGREDIENT NAME
Glyoxal
WHAT IS IT?
A small aldehyde molecule used in skincare and cosmetics primarily as a preservative or cross linking agent. It helps stabilise formulations and maintain product texture.
WHAT IT DOES
Prevents microbial growth, improves formula stability, and can help maintain the consistency of gels, creams, and other products.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types (functional ingredient rather than an active)
Products that need long shelf life or stable texture
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan-friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You have very sensitive skin (can be irritating in high concentrations)
You prefer ultra minimalist formulas (it’s functional, not a treatment ingredient)
INGREDIENT NAME
Hydrogenated Lecithin
WHAT IS IT?
A lipid derived ingredient created by hydrogenating lecithin, which is naturally found in soy or sunflower. It functions as an emulsifier and skin conditioning agent in skincare.
WHAT IT DOES
Helps restore and strengthen the skin barrier, improves product texture and spreadability, locks in moisture, and supports overall skin hydration.
It also enhances the stability and performance of formulations containing oils and water.
GREAT FOR:
Dry or dehydrated skin
Sensitive or barrier compromised skin
Creams, serums, and emulsions that need smooth texture and enhanced hydration
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s plant derived (soy or sunflower) and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You have a soy allergy, rare reactions are possible depending on the source
You prefer ultra minimalist formulations (functional, not a potent “active”)
INGREDIENT NAME
Hydroxyethylcellulose
WHAT IS IT?
A plant derived thickening and gelling agent made from cellulose (the fibrous material in plant cell walls).
WHAT IT DOES
Thickens formulas, improves texture and spreadability, helps stabilise products, reduces runniness in gels and serums, and creates a pleasant, glide-y finish without heaviness or grease.
GREAT FOR:
Gels
Serums
Cleansers
Anything that needs a lightweight, smooth, non sticky consistency
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s derived from plant cellulose and is considered fully vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer totally minimal formulas (this is a functional, not a treatment ingredient)
You’ve experienced sensitivity to cellulose based thickeners, rare, but possible
INGREDIENT NAME
Larix Europaea Wood Extract
WHAT IS IT?
A plant extract derived from the European Larch tree.
WHAT IT DOES
Boosts hydration, improves skin smoothness, helps reduce transepidermal water loss, gives a soft “blurring” effect, and can enhance the performance of other humectants (like hyaluronic acid).
It’s also used to improve product texture and provide a lightweight, silky finish.
GREAT FOR:
Dehydrated skin
Dry skin
Dull skin
Anyone wanting smoother, softer texture
Hydrating serums and moisturisers
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s derived from a plant source and is considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re sensitive to botanical extracts (rare, but possible)
You prefer ultra minimal formulas without plant actives
INGREDIENT NAME
Niacinamide
WHAT IS IT?
A form of vitamin B3 that supports overall skin health.
WHAT IT DOES
Brightens, evens tone, supports the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation.
VEGAN?
Yes - it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
GREAT FOR:
Dull skin
Uneven tone
Sensitivity
Acne-prone skin
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re using strong vitamin C or acids and you get sensitivity
Over 10% can sometimes cause flushing
INGREDIENT NAME
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
WHAT IS IT?
A botanical extract derived from the root of the Panax ginseng plant, long used in traditional medicine. Rich in ginsenosides, vitamins, and antioxidants that help energise and revitalise the skin.
WHAT IT DOES
Boosts radiance, supports collagen, helps improve firmness, protects against environmental stressors, and may help reduce the appearance of fine lines and dullness.
Also offers gentle soothing and anti inflammatory benefits.
GREAT FOR:
Dull skin
Early signs of ageing
Loss of firmness
Tired or stressed skin
Anyone wanting an antioxidant boost
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s a plant derived extract and considered fully vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re sensitive to botanical extracts or herbal ingredients
You’re using multiple strong actives and experience mild irritation
INGREDIENT NAME
Polysorbate 20
WHAT IS IT?
An emulsifier and solubiliser derived from sorbitol and fatty acids.
WHAT IT DOES
Helps mix oil and water, improves product texture and stability, ensures even distribution of fragrance or active ingredients, and prevents separation in skincare products.
GREAT FOR:
Cleansers
Mists
Serums with fragrance or essential oils
Products that need a smooth, non greasy, uniform texture
VEGAN?
Yes - it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re sensitive to essential oils or fragranced products (polysorbate itself is typically very gentle, but it allows those ingredients to penetrate more evenly)
You prefer completely minimalist formulas,cthis is a functional ingredient rather than a treatment
INGREDIENT NAME
Phenoxyethanol
WHAT IS IT?
A widely used synthetic preservative in skincare and cosmetics. It helps prevent microbial growth and extends the shelf life of products.
WHAT IT DOES
Protects products from bacteria and mold, stabilises formulas, and ensures the product stays safe and effective over time.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types (functional ingredient rather than an active)
Water based formulas like serums, creams, and lotions
Products that need reliable preservation
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan-friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You have very sensitive skin, can cause irritation in rare cases
You prefer ultra-minimalist or preservative free formulations
INGREDIENT NAME
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
WHAT IS IT?
A thick, nutrient rich vegetable oil extracted from castor beans.
WHAT IT DOES
Moisturises and softens the skin, helps lock in hydration, supports the skin barrier, soothes dryness, and adds a glossy, conditioning finish.
Often used in lip products, balms, and moisturisers for its rich texture and ability to keep formulas smooth and stable.
GREAT FOR:
Dry skin
Flaky or rough patches
Lips and cuticles
Rich balms and moisturisers
Anyone needing extra nourishment or protection
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s a plant derived oil and considered fully vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re prone to clogged pores (it’s generally low moderate comedogenic, depending on skin type)
You prefer lightweight, fast absorbing textures
You have a sensitivity to castor oil, rare, but can happen
INGREDIENT NAME
Sodium Hyaluronate
WHAT IS IT?
The salt form of hyaluronic acid, smaller in molecular size, so it can penetrate the skin more effectively. Known as one of the gold-standard humectants for deep hydration.
WHAT IT DOES
Attracts and holds onto moisture, plumps the skin, reduces the appearance of fine lines, supports elasticity, and helps improve overall smoothness and hydration levels.
GREAT FOR:
Dehydrated skin
Dry skin
Sensitivity
Dullness
Anyone wanting a juicy, hydrated, bouncy finish
VEGAN?
Yes, modern sodium hyaluronate used in skincare is synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re in a very dry climate (humectants can feel tight unless layered with a moisturiser)
You’re prone to pilling when layering multiple hydrating serums
INGREDIENT NAME
Sodium Metabisulfite
WHAT IS IT?
A preservative and antioxidant commonly used in cosmetics and skincare. It helps prevent oxidation, extends shelf life, and keeps formulas stable.
WHAT IT DOES
Prevents discoloration and degradation of products, protects sensitive ingredients from oxidation, and helps maintain product quality over time.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types (functional ingredient, not active)
Formulations with antioxidants, colorants, or sensitive actives
Products that need long shelf life
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You have very sensitive skin or sulfite allergies (rare, but can cause irritation)
You prefer ultra minimalist formulas (it’s a functional, not skin benefiting ingredient)
INGREDIENT NAME
Sodium Nitrate
WHAT IS IT?
A mineral derived preservative and stabiliser commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products to prevent microbial growth and maintain product safety.
WHAT IT DOES
Helps extend shelf life, prevents spoilage, stabilises formulas, and keeps products safe for use over time.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types (it’s a functional ingredient rather than an active)
Products that need long shelf life
Formulations with water or sensitive ingredients
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced or mineral derived and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra minimalist or “clean” formulations (it’s purely functional)
You have highly reactive or allergy prone skin, rare irritation possible
INGREDIENT NAME
Sodium PCA
WHAT IS IT?
A powerful humectant derived from the amino acid proline. It’s one of the skin’s natural moisturising factors (NMF), meaning it’s naturally present in healthy skin to help maintain hydration.
WHAT IT DOES
Attracts and holds moisture, boosts hydration levels, improves softness and elasticity, and supports a healthy skin barrier.
It’s especially good at helping the skin stay plump, supple, and comfortable.
GREAT FOR:
Dry skin
Dehydrated skin
Sensitive or compromised skin
Anyone wanting smoother, bouncier skin
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced or plant derived and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re extremely sensitive to humectants (very rare)
You’re in a very dry climate, layer it with a moisturiser for best results
INGREDIENT NAME
Tromethamine
WHAT IS IT?
A buffering agent used in skincare and cosmetics to help maintain a stable pH. It ensures formulas remain effective and gentle on the skin.
WHAT IT DOES
Stabilises pH, improves formula consistency, enhances the performance of other ingredients, and helps prevent irritation caused by pH fluctuations.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types (functional ingredient rather than an active)
Formulations with acids or pH-sensitive ingredients
Products that need long-term stability
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra minimalist formulas (it’s purely functional)
You have extremely sensitive skin, rare irritation possible in very high concentrations
INGREDIENT NAME
Yeast Ferment Extract
WHAT IS IT?
A bio fermented skincare ingredient created from yeast. It’s rich in nutrients like amino acids, antioxidants, and peptides, and is often used for its hydrating, smoothing, and skin revitalising properties.
WHAT IT DOES
Boosts hydration, supports the skin barrier, helps smooth texture, improves radiance, and provides antioxidant protection.
It can also help the skin look healthier and more energised thanks to its nutrient-rich profile.
GREAT FOR:
Dull or tired skin
Dehydrated skin
Uneven texture
Anyone wanting a glow boost or barrier support
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s derived from yeast fermentation and considered vegan-friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You’re sensitive to fermented or probiotic style ingredients
You have very reactive skin (ferments are usually gentle, but not for everyone)
INGREDIENT NAME
Zinc Chloride
WHAT IS IT?
A mineral derived compound often used in skincare and personal care products for its astringent, antimicrobial, and stabilising properties.
WHAT IT DOES
Helps control oil, reduces bacterial growth, supports wound healing, and stabilises formulations. It can also help soothe minor irritations and balance the skin’s surface.
GREAT FOR:
Oily or acne-prone skin
Cleansers and toners
Products that need mild antimicrobial support
Anyone wanting oil control and skin clarity
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s mineral-derived and considered vegan-friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You have very dry or sensitive skin, it can be a little drying in high concentrations
You prefer ultra-gentle formulations (it’s functional and slightly astringent)
INGREDIENT NAME
1,2-Hexanediol
WHAT IS IT?
A synthetic humectant and emollient commonly used in skincare. It also works as a gentle preservative booster, helping keep products stable and fresh.
WHAT IT DOES
Hydrates and softens the skin, improves product texture, enhances the effectiveness of preservatives, and helps prevent microbial growth.
It also gives formulas a smooth, lightweight, non greasy feel.
GREAT FOR:
All skin types
Hydrating serums, moisturisers, and essences
Products that need gentle preservation and improved texture
VEGAN?
Yes, it’s synthetically produced and considered vegan-friendly.
WATCH OUT IF:
You prefer ultra-minimalist or preservative-free formulas
You have very sensitive skin, irritation is uncommon but possible